A RARE IMPERIAL MIDNIGHT-BLUE GROUND DRAGON VEST, CHAOGUA
18th/19th century The vest finely embroidered with two pairs of five-clawed golden dragons surging upward at the front and a pair of dragons clutching a flaming pearl below a front-facing dragon at the back, all amidst polychrome ruyi-form clouds and above the lishui stripe and terrestrial diagram, all in couched gold thread and satin stich in shades of blue, red, green, and yellow on a midnight-blue ground. 139cm (54 3/4in) long.
十八/十九世紀 石青色緞繡彩雲金龍紋朝褂
Provenance: an Australian private collection
來源：澳大利亞私人收藏
The present Court vest chaogua belongs to the most formal category of Imperial wear at the Qing Court known as chaofu or ritual wear. Although the origin of chaogua may be traced back to the informal sleeveless dragon-decorated vests worn at the Ming dynasty Court, it was only around mid-18th century that specific rules were introduced and reinforced to attribute different types of clothing to specific Imperial ranks.
According to Huangchao Liqi Tushi (皇朝禮器圖示), the Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Present Dynasty compiled by the Imperial order of the Qianlong Emperor and completed in 1759, the present robe was likely worn by a Royal Princess. The design of four dragons at the front and three at the back aligns with the description for chaogua worn by fujin (royal princess). The original text states:
'皇子福晉朝褂色用石青片金緣繡文前行龍四後行三領後垂金黃條雜飾惟宜下至郡王福晉縣主皆同。'
Which may be translated as:
'The prince consort's robe is blue ground embroidered in gold threads with four dragons at the front and three dragons at the back, gold thread decorations behind the collar, this design is appropriate for the wives and daughters of lower ranking princes as well.'
There are two other types of chaogua representing different ranks: the one for Empress Dowager, Empress and huangguifei with two large profile five-clawed dragons on the front and back; the other type worn by all ranks of women including the wives of nobles not related to the Imperial clan and the wives of other high officials featured four-clawed dragons.
The style of the design is comparable to other 18th century examples of chaogua. Compare with a similar robe, 18th century, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (acc.no.871-1901). Another similar example of a Court vest on yellow-ground was sold at Bonhams Paris, 13 December 2023, lot 32. See also a related midnight blue ground vest, 19th century, which was sold at Christie's New York, 17-18 March 2016, lot 1381.
For information and estimates on domestic and international shipping as well as export licences please contact Bonhams Shipping Department.
Buyers' Obligations
ALL BIDDERS MUST AGREE THAT THEY HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD BONHAMS' CONDITIONS OF SALE AND AGREE TO BE BOUND BY THEM, AND AGREE TO PAY THE BUYER'S PREMIUM AND ANY OTHER CHARGES MENTIONED IN THE NOTICE TO BIDDERS. THIS AFFECTS THE BIDDERS LEGAL RIGHTS.
If you have any questions about the Conditions of Sale, please contact your nearest client services team.
Buyers' Premium and Charges
For all Sales categories, buyer's premium excluding Cars, Motorbikes, Wine, Whisky and Coin & Medal sales, will be as follows:
Buyer's Premium Rates
28% on the first £40,000 of the hammer price;
27% of the hammer price of amounts in excess of £40,000 up to and including £800,000;
21% of the hammer price of amounts in excess of £800,000 up to and including £4,500,000;
and 14.5% of the hammer price of any amounts in excess of £4,500,000.
A 3rd party bidding platform fee of 4% of the Hammer Price for Buyers using the following bidding platforms will be added to the invoices of successful Buyers for auctions starting on or after 6th July 2024 – Invaluable; Live Auctioneers; The Saleroom; Lot-tissimo.
VAT at the current rate of 20% will be added to the Buyer's Premium and charges excluding Artists Resale Right.
Payment Notices
For payment information please refer to the sale catalog.
Shipping Notices
For information and estimates on domestic and international shipping as well as export licenses please contact Bonhams Shipping Department.
