A DIAMOND AND RUBY-SET MINAUDIERE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, CIRCA 1935The close-ribbing case of rectangular outline, with a lid enhanced by square calibré-cut rubies and diamonds, opening to reveal a mirror with three compartments, a lipstick and lighter holder, mounted in 18K gold, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, maker's mark, French assay marks, measuring 14 x 7.9 x 1.5cm, approximate total gross weight: 385.54gThroughout the 1920s, the House of Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as many of their competitors such as Boucheron and Cartier, catered to the fashion of the Roaring Twenties by producing delicate evening bags and vanity cases known as “nécessaires”. The nécessaire was a small hard-sided box exquisitely decorated and designed to contain powder compact, lipstick, tortoiseshell comb, mirror and, occasionally, an ivory note card and pencil. However, on the occasion of a visit to his friend and loyal client, socialite Florence Jay Gould, Charles Arpels noticed that she carried her belongings in a Lucky Strike cigarette tin. Thus, the idea for the “minaudiére” - a larger and more glamorous accessory which would replace both the nécessaire and the evening bag - was born. Charles named his creation after his wife Estelle, for her “minauderies” or simpering airs.Made in gold or lacquer, the minaudiére contained numerous clever compartments designed to hold everything that an elegant lady would need to carry - either by day or night - including powder, lipstick, make-up pots, comb, small change, cigarettes and lighter. Some examples even included a retractable watch. The minaudiéres were decorated and embellished with precious stones and pearls, and were mounted using a specially patented “Mystery Set” technique so that no prongs were visible around the setting. Using gold rails less than a fifth of a millimetre in thickness, the process necessitated hundreds of hours of skilled craftsmanship but it allowed for swathes of unbroken colour in the decoration of the case. Although first patented in 1933 solely for use on the flat surface of the minaudiére, the House of Van Cleef & Arpels would continue to be develop the “Mystery Set” technique over time for use in more challenging pieces and the method would be widely imitated right up to the present day.Meanwhile the timeless minaudiéres would continue to be created for devoted clients to carry and adore throughout the 1930s and beyond. Some minaudiéres were even designed to correspond to various parures in the collection, meaning that any fashionable lady was obliged to own more than one, if not a selection of cases, in order to match with different outfit choices. Today, the minaudiére or “box bag” as it can also be known now, is as practical as it is stylish. Although small, it is the perfect option as a unique evening bag or dinner accessory.
