A ROCK CRYSTAL, ONYX AND DIAMOND 'TORCHON' NECKLACE, BY SEAMAN SCHEPPSComposed of fluted rock crystal links, interspersed by further rock crystal and onyx discs, accented by five round brilliant-cut diamond rondelles, mounted in 18K gold, maker's mark for Seaman Schepps, length 97.5cmPlease note that this necklace can also be worn separately as two necklaces, lengths 46cm & 52cm.Jewellery designer Seaman Schepps is the embodiment of the American Dream. Schepps was born into an immigrant family and grew up in tenements on the Lower East Side of New York. His marvellous jewellery designs took the American market by storm in the 1930s allowing Schepps to rise through the social strata.With his pioneering designs including chunky brooches, barberic bracelets and bubble earrings, Schepps defined a new style of the American woman and his jewellery featured on the covers of top fashion publications such as Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Look. He counted Katherine Hepburn, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duchess of Windsor and Andy Warhol, as well as members of the Du Pont, Mellon and Rockerfeller families, all among his clients. In the late 1930s and early 1940s, Schepps began to experiment with rock crystal. Carving and engraving the precious stone, he created pieces in which it complimented and counterbalanced other precious gem stones such as emerald or jade. He also produced exquisite examples which allowed the rock crystal to shine in its own light, similar in design to the present lot (albeit a contemporary piece inspired by the designs of the founder). Rock crystal enjoyed a resurgence in the 1960s when Schepps created further pieces of clean simplistic design such as the barrel ear clips and ring and the familiar shell ear clips composed solely of rock crystal paired with yellow gold. After Schepps’ death in 1972, Patricia Schepps Vaill continued to make jewellery in her father’s style, often using elements from pieces he had designed. Vaill developed a new look in jewellery aimed at appealing to a younger clientele. After twenty years at the helm of her father’s company, Vaill retired and passed the baton to Jay Bauer and Anthony Hopenhajm who have continued to produce jewellery in the unique Schepps style.Today’s designs continue to draw on the Schepps archives which contain over 5,000 detailed jewellery renderings, and 650 moulds. The pieces created in the workshop continue to be made with cutting-edge methods and inventive, unusual materials. Classic pieces are rendered in new materials and signature materials are used for bold new styles. The flagship store on Park Avenue at 58th Street continues to attract socialites, movie stars, royalty and trend-setters who are drawn to Schepps’ innovative use of exotic materials. Today, some 50 years after his death, he continues to inspire modern jewellers.
