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BELLE EPOCH DEMANTOID AND DIAMOND PENDANT, 1890s the cushion-shaped demantoid garnet millegrain set between bow and swag decoration suspending an articulated pendant surmounted by knife wire and collet set diamonds to a bow motif set throughout with rose and circular cut stones length 50mm approximately Demantoid is a green gemstone sub-variety of the mineral andradite, the most valuable of the garnet group of minerals. Fine specimens are exceedingly hard to obtain and are increasingly costly. The first demantoid garnet was discovered in the mid-19th century in Russia's Ural Mountains. Miners were immediately struck by the highly refractive nature of the gem and its exceptional fire. They compared it to diamond, possibly thinking the flashing green colour resembled the eyes of demons, hence supposedly the name. Very popular in Russia, they were often used by Carl Fabergé in his jewellery. The stones have characteristic inclusions of fine asbestos fibres (chrysotile). These fibres radiate out from small crystals of chromite. They are referred to as 'horsetail' inclusions and are diagnostic, as no other green stones have these inclusions. This stone is mounted in a brooch from the late 19th century, which makes it highly likely that it is in its original setting. Although the gemstone has low hardness, this stone is relatively unmarked; additionally demantoids are generally small, so a stone of this size is very rare.