A BOLT OF SILK FUCHSIA-GROUND BROCADE
Late Qing DynastyThe long bolt woven from polychrome and gilt silk threads with intricate octagonal diaper designs enriched with interlocking, zigzag and wave patterns all on a fuchsia ground; together with two related sections woven with a seven-character inscription. 976cm (384 3/8in) wide x 72cm (28 3/8in) long. (3).
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清晚期 紅錦地團壽紋緞匹料「蘇州織造臣奉曾」楷書繡款Provenance: Lieutenant-Colonel T.S. Cox, and thence by descentBonhams London, 12 May 2016, lot 255An important European private collection來源:T.S. Cox中校舊藏,並由後人保存倫敦邦瀚斯,2016年5月12日,拍品編號255歐洲重要私人收藏The inscription reads: '蘇州織造臣奉曾', which may be translated as 'Made by the Ministers of the Suzhou weavers'.Lieutenant-Colonel T.S. Cox graduated from Sandhurst Military Academy in 1892 and was commissioned in 1894 into the 16th Indian Cavalry, The Bengal Lancers. His noteworthy military service included in 1897, Tochi Field Force, N.W. Frontier; and in 1900, the China Expeditionary Force during the Boxer Rebellion, when he was awarded the US Military Order of the Dragon. In 1901 he was seconded as Advisor to the Chinese Government and awarded an Imperial decoration by Shanqi, Prince Su (1866-1922). In 1903 he was elected to the Royal Geographical Society. In 1903 he served as Captain in the Indian Army; between 1904–1907, he was posted in the D.M.O. War Office, London, the Balkans, Asia Minor, Somaliland, Abyssinia, Russian Central Asia, and Ottoman Middle East; in 1911 he was awarded the King George V Delhi Coronation Durbar medal. Between 1912-1913 he was posted in the Middle East and Central Asia. In 1915, he took part in the Gallipoli Campaign and in 1916 transferred to command the 37th Dogras. In 1917 he served in the Mesopotamian campaign and was wounded whilst serving in the Aden Field Force. In 1920 he served with the Waziristan Field Force, NW Frontier; in 1921 he transferred to command the 3rd Madras Regiment and in 1925 he retired from the Indian Army as Lieutenant-Colonel.The Imperial court established a weaving and dyeing administration in Suzhou during the Ming and Qing dynasties, which was in charge of weaving silk fabrics for the highest-ranking members of society. The products included fabrics, Imperial robes, official costumes, and garments for daily use as well as for Imperial weddings and birthdays. For a detailed discussion about silk weaving in Suzhou, see M.Dusenbury, Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art, New York, 2004.Compare with a related silk brocade panel, late 19th century, in the Minneapolis Institute of Art, Minneapolis, illustrated by R.Jacobsen, Imperial Silks. Ch'ing Imperial Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Art, Minneapolis MS, vo.2, p.1140, no.572.中國歷代都有為皇室營造服飾用品的專門機構,明清沿襲元代,於江寧營建皇家織造,後又陸續營建蘇州織造和杭州織造,合稱「江南三織造」,專為「上用」、「官用」製作綾羅綢緞。有關蘇州織造之詳述,參考M.Dusenbury著,《Flowers, Dragons & Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art》,紐約,2004年。比較明尼阿波利斯美術館館藏一例十九世紀晚期匹料,收錄於R.Jacobsen著,《Imperial Silks. Ch'ing Imperial Textiles in the Minneapolis Institute of Art》,卷二,2000年,明尼阿波利斯,頁1140,編號572。
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