A FINE EMBROIDERED SATIN MANCHU WOMEN'S INFORMAL ROBE, CHANGYI
Late Qing Dynasty Finely embroidered throughout in satin stitch with sprigs of narcissus and clusters of ruyi, and stylised shou characters sewn in gold-wrapped thread, within black borders with chrysanthemums and grapes, cream borders of floral bunches, the pale cream cuffs with further ruyi. 143cm (56 1/4in) wide x 144cm (56 3/4in) long.
清晚期 藕荷色緞繡靈芝水仙紋氅衣
Elegantly embroidered with floral motifs, the present robe is imbued with rich auspicious symbolism, expressing wishes for happiness, longevity, and prosperity. The narrow sleeves and wide borders also reflect the distinctive fashion sensibilities of young Manchu noblewomen associated with the Court of the Empress Dowager Cixi.
The narcissus, often depicted in early spring scenes, symbolised purity and renewal. Its delicate, upright form also represented noble character and unyielding integrity. Clusters of grapes, with their abundant fruit, signified fertility and prosperity, while their entwined vines evoked the wish for generations of descendants. The chrysanthemum, a symbol of autumn, was associated with perseverance and longevity, as it flourishes in the colder months. Meanwhile, the lingzhi fungus, with its cloud-like form, was revered as a sacred plant linked to Immortality, frequently depicted in Daoist art as part of the celestial paradise. Scattered throughout the design, shou (壽) characters—representing longevity—further reinforce the robe's benevolent wishes.
Compare with a related Manchu woman's lavender silk robe, changyi, 19th century, which was sold at Bonhams London, 16 May 2024, lot 165. See also a similar purple satin Manchu woman's informal robe, changyi, late 19th century, which was sold at Christie's New York, 19 March 2008, lot 93.
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